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Cognoscenti: A neighbourhood restaurant built on friendship, food and wine

Cognoscenti is the kind of restaurant that feels both thoughtfully crafted and comfortably familiar — a place where quality food, a considered wine list and genuine hospitality come together without fuss or pretence.

Located beside the Cameo Cinema in Belgrave, the restaurant has quietly become a favourite for locals, while also drawing diners from further afield who are willing to travel for a memorable meal.

The story of Cognoscenti begins long before its doors opened. Owners Adrien and Kevin first met at the age of 14 while studying at culinary school in France. Both went on to work in restaurants across France and overseas, building experience in kitchens and front-of-house roles. In 2012, they moved to Australia and began working at Donovan’s in St Kilda, where Kevin met his now wife, Emma.

For almost a decade, the three worked side by side — Adrien in front of house, Emma as head chef, and Kevin later stepping into that role when Emma took a step back after the birth of their second child. During those years, the idea of opening a restaurant of their own was often discussed. That opportunity finally arrived in February 2022, when Kevin and Emma, who live locally in Upwey, noticed the space next to the Cameo Cinema had become available.

Cognoscenti opened shortly after, taking over a venue that had previously operated as a wine bar. Coming out of Covid, the team chose to focus first on establishing the business rather than undertaking major changes, allowing the restaurant to evolve naturally. The aim was clear from the start — to create a relaxed but good-quality restaurant where locals could enjoy a proper meal and a solid wine list without having to travel far.

The response from the community was immediate and encouraging. Over time, Cognoscenti developed into a modern Australian restaurant with European influences, guided by seasonal produce and a strong emphasis on cooking over charcoal. Wine has always been central to the experience, with a list of more than 200 wines and a rotating selection available by the glass. A small rear courtyard also offers a welcoming space for drinks when the weather allows.

In July 2025, the restaurant closed for seven weeks for a long-planned renovation. The kitchen was expanded to nearly double its original size, significantly improving workflow and service, while the dining layout was refined to better suit the way the team operates.

Today, Cognoscenti is owned and run by the three partners. Adrien oversees front of house, Kevin leads the kitchen, and Emma supports both operations. The menu evolves constantly with the seasons, though a handful of signature dishes — including the twice-baked goat’s cheese soufflé and the much-loved Basque cheesecake — remain enduring favourites.

Open seven days a week, Cognoscenti balances its role as both a destination restaurant and a true local. It is a place to celebrate, to gather mid-week, or to enjoy a relaxed Sunday roast — reliable, welcoming, and very much part of everyday life in Belgrave.

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